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Dardenelles challenge Aussie comfort zone
November, 2001
A troupe of 20 tri-Service personnel have recently returned from the Dardanelles,
close to the pirate-infested Mediterranean, after kayaking some 100 nautical
miles from Gelibolu to ANZAC Cove.
The adventure-based exercise neatly packaged travel, training, sightseeing,
and free time to shop for speciality Turkish goods.
Organised by the Australian Army White Water Association, Exercise ANZAC
Advance 2001 was coordinated to employ sea kayaking with corresponding
sightseeing of the Turkish surrounds.
Air Force representative, Wing Commander Glendan Krause, had participated
in other adventure-based training, but as far as he's concerned the expedition
was beyond expectation. Glendan had considered sea kayaking and when the
mounting instruction presented itself, the pilgrimage to Gallipoli was
further reason to accept.
Kayak veteran and a purveyor of all-things-Turkish, retired Major John
Thurgar provided the expert guidance. MAJ Thurgar, Glendan says has a
great passion for finding and discussing the truth surrounding the ANZAC
legend, coupled with a well-developed interest in sea kayaking.
'What impressed me about him, was that he had a very balanced view of
the conflict. He discussed the Turkish perspective, showing us where their
command post had been; and how the terrain lay from both points of view,
and included comments on the Naval battles preceding the landings and
the use of aircraft for recognisance.'
The kayaking expedition began at the northern end of the Dardanelles
on open ocean. Given that the ADF conduct adventure-based exercises in
only the safest circumstances - practical and theoretical sea kayaking
lessons were a trip precursor, including a swim test to ensure the participants
could handle conditions.
'We spent the first day learning how to handle the boats; particularly
how to get back into the kayak in the event that it capsized in rough
conditions, so we deliberately practised that scenario - getting back
in with two people helping each other.
'The training proved just as well, given on the first day out we had
a few parties capsize.' Strong winds of the Sea of Marmara to the north
east of the Dardanelles, created rough seas on the maiden outing, which
Glendan says made challenging conditions for the trip.
Seas were smoother within the narrows of the Dardanelles and once the
kayakers had rounded the Gallipoli peninsular, they were protected from
the seasonal north easterly.
The first day saw the party head from Gelibolu to Eceabat; the tour then
proceeded to the Kilidbahir Fortress - Canakkale - the remains of Troy
- Cape Helles at Sedulbahir and Kum Koyu.
There weren't enough kayaks for the 20-odd participants to use at one
time, so the group divided their time between a vessel and the tour bus,
which ferried those land-bound for a swap in transportation.
The immediate benefits to Glendan's mind related to a classic training
adventure - to do something out of one's comfort zone, in a foreign country,
with the language barrier, an extraordinary exchange rate, and experiencing
the pangs of separation from home and heart.
'The unit became very tight, given the circumstances. The trip was a
challenge in a well-controlled environment that tested us physically in
terms of effort and environmental challenges; and mentally to learn new
skills.
'It was also an emotional challenge dealing with the culture change,
language barrier, the differences in food and hygiene, separation from
family and meeting new friends. And finally, it was a spiritual experience
for most of us to understand more of the ANZAC legend - essentially a
defining moment for Australia and their identity in the world.
'Just being removed from our every day environment, gave us a chance
to examine our lives and where we were heading. It was an excellent balance
of kayaking and battlefield history, which included a passionately shared
expert knowledge. There was also an insight into the logistic effort that
goes into conducting such an activity.'
As an Australian, Glendan felt a tremendous sense of history. 'I had
quite an experience on the French battlefields, having visited England
with an Army contingent. We conducted parades on ANZAC Day in villiages
and I found that very moving. Turkey was expected to be different, given
that we had defended France but attacked Turkey.
'It is a tribute to those original ANZACs and the Turkish nation, that
modern Turkey receives Australian visitors so warmly. The respect shown
by both nations for each other is well represented by the legendary words
of Turkey's modern day ruler Ataturk at ANZAC Cove:
'Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives. You are now
lying in the soul of a friendly country, therefore rest in peace. There
is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they
lie side by side here in this country of ours.
You, the mothers who sent their sons from far away countries wipe away
your tears. Your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After
having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.'
On the final run, the kayakers put names in a hat to determine who would
be lucky enough to paddle into ANZAC Cove at dawn, to be greeted by the
rest of the expeditioners. They then swapped positions, so all could view
the cove from the sea and pay their respects.
'The conditions were absolutely still, with a glassy sea and a view to
the ocean floor around 15 feet. Incredibly peaceful
'
The group conducted a private memorial service at the graveyard and held
a Gunfire breakfast.
In the final stages of the ADF organised adventure-based expedition to
Turkey, Glendan proved a gun-kayak aficionado in a small but significant
part of the world. The trip encouraged participants to new personal growth
-just ask Glendan.
It is hoped that a similar activity will be conducted in August
Story
by Amber McKinnon
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