A Home Islander watches the ANZAC ceremony with interest from a distance.

The isles exist some 1500 nautical miles north west of Perth, deep in the Indian Ocean. With the exception of North Keeling, Cocos Keeling forms a horseshoe contour surrounded by a coral reef and enclosing a natural lagoon; sheer beauty in complete isolation.

The islands are low lying and would be wildly covered in coconut palms, if it were not for the culling and plantation process the Environmental Protection agency undertake through the Pulu Keeling National Park. A natural habitat of numerous seabirds including the frigate and boobie, the land crabs have a tendency to get under foot.

The catafalque party stands to attention with many of the Home Islanders joining guests and Air Force personnel at the memorial service.

The islands of residence, West and Home, have a combined populous of approximately 650. Most of these inhabitants are long term, whose ancestry winds back some 160 years. These Cocos Islanders are descended from people brought to the islands in the 19th century from surrounding countries such as Malaya, East Africa, China, Java, India and Sri Lanka.

Islamic in faith, the descendants speak a variant of Malay, known as Cocos Malay. Their community on Home Island, although free to mix socially with their West Isle counterparts, is distinctly separate as they maintain a traditional lifestyle.

Direction Island: a popular anchorage for passing yachts.

The Islanders celebrated ANZAC Day with a traditional boat race.

West Island teacher and ex-Canadian, Ms Roban Clarke explained both Islands have schools in which the respective educational needs are taught and cultural-like is manifest. The numerous children from both Islands are encouraged to attend their sister school occasionally, to promote mutual understanding and acceptance. And at a glance, the cross-cultural education has worked - as the broad smiles and big, friendly waves welcome all.

However, the Australian Territory was the subject of some not-so-friendly gestures dating back to the Great War in 1914, when the Australian ship HMAS Sydney came under attack from the German cruiser, the Emden as the warship approached Cocos Islands (then under colonial rule). The Sydney, with superior speed and firepower, raked the German ship, which limped to North Keeling where she foundered on the reef. The Islands also came under Japanese bombing attack during World War II, when the RAF 36 Squadron was based on West Island.

Home Island students cited, in English and Cocos Malay, 'how lucky we are to be Australian.'

Thus, the RAAF Edinburgh-based 10 Squadron march on Home Island to mark the ANZAC celebrations of 2001, was to all present a historic occasion. It was the first time the ceremony had been conducted on the Malay-occupied Island, and for the many indigenous islanders who turned out and viewed the proceedings with some trepidation and much fascination. Students, representing the Malay people, gave speeches in both their native language and English.

RAAF Air Command Band Bugler, SGT Peter Gow, moved all with his 'note perfect' Last Post.

The recently posted West Island AFP Officer, Sergeant Darrell Kildey gave a personal and moving account of his ANZAC recollections. SGT Kildey remembered an essay he wrote at age 14, reflecting on the ANZAC forces that morning at Gallipoli. He recalled the fear with which the young men must have felt landing so far from home, to such violent ends. 'They were put to the supreme test - and passed. We will all be tested at some time in our lives, I have no doubt.

AFP Officer, SGT Darrell Kildey, spoke in a moving personal tribute to the ANZACs.

And that is when we reach in and recall that spirit, our true identity,' SGT Kildey said.

Wreaths were laid, the ode recited and the bugler sounded the Last Post, well framed by azure waters and coconut palms. The Islands beaches may not even remotely resemble those on which the young ANZACs landed a lifetime ago, however, we felt kindred in spirit with emotive words and a hearty rendition of the Australian national anthem.

Story and photographs by Amber McKinnon