Return
to Rwanda
Peter Matthey served
throughout Australia and overseas, including Rwanda during his
33 years as an Air Force medical assistant. Now a reservist with
No. 22SQN, Peter returned to Rwanda late last year and shares
his journey.
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Rwandan
children collect water at Cyangugu. The scenes from Rwanda
have changed in the eleven years since Peter Mathey served
as a medical assistant.
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The
new Kigali Genocide Memorial.
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Hamissi
and Peter Matthey were thrilled to catch up on Peters
return to Rwanda.
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I
had a few concerns about going back to Rwanda, and flying into
Kigali certainly brought back heaps of memories. The air, as usual,
was thick with smoke and I kept thinking about our arrival with
the United Nations 11 years ago.
The Kasombe terminal at Kigali hasnt changed but has been
repaired along with all the surrounding buildings. There were
no UN aircraft to be seen.
After making our way through immigration and customs smoothly,
we took a taxi to the Okapi Hotel and phoned Hamissi who was one
of the interpreters with ASCI and II, and who became a good mate
when we were in Rwanda.
It was a pretty special moment for me when he arrived at the hotel.
He was over the moon that one of his Aussie mates had come back
to his home country this time under different circumstances.
Our first night in Kigali was peaceful, different to what I had
known before.
On a tour with Hamissi the next day I had an opportunity to take
in my surrounds. The town had come a long way traffic lights,
housing estates, and a golf course in the centre.
We also visited the hospital where I worked in 1995. It has been
converted back to a medical clinic/private wing of the local hospital.
The rooms have been done up and the old room I had shared was
immaculate.
The following day we travelled by bus a 14-seater with
19 people on it to Gisenyi on Lake Kivu. There we talked
to a lot of locals, including two Rwandan boys who had never spoken
to Aussies. They thought it was great and we met a few of their
family members, one walking with us the next day up to the Congo/Rwandan
border at Goma, 2km away.
Back in Kigali we met up with Hamissi again and continued our
tour. The stadium that housed UN troops a decade earlier is now
up to international standards, and the old UN HQ is the UN Justice
Commission.
Our tour of the newly constructed Genocide Museum was a solemn,
moving experience, but also very interesting. So too was our visit
to the Belgian Memorial down the road from the UN Hospital. The
memorial, established and owned by Belgium, commemorates the killing
of the Rwandan Prime Minister and 10 UN soldiers.
The next day we spent two hours hiking up to the Dian Fossey Memorial.
Although Rwandan soldiers accompanied us to protect us from wild
animals and poachers, the area is quite safe.
The people we met were wonderful, including Salim, the Pakistani
owner of a local Indian restaurant. He was in Kigali with his
family during the genocide and had a few stories to tell, particularly
about the Australians who looked after his brother when he was
shot.
Hamissi later took us on a lengthy drive south-west of Kigali,
on the Congo/Burundi border in an attempt to find and meet up
with Jacko, a young Rwandan boy who was shot
during an attack on his village in 1995.
He was special to all of the Aussies who cared for him for several
months and taught him some of the English language.
We thought after we left that that would be the last we heard
of him. However, he is still alive and lives in Cyangugu.
Hamissi had gone to a lot of trouble to find Jacko he had
one of his local mates from the town looking out for him, leaving
a message at his house that Hamissi wanted to see him.
Unfortunately, his memories of the genocide meant that Jacko couldnt
believe Hamissi was looking for him, instead he thought it was
a ploy to get him, so he disappeared.
I was disappointed that I didnt get to see Jacko. It would
have really made the trip even more special. It is sad to know
he is still afraid after all these years.
On the way back to Kigali we stopped at the Murambi Genocide Museum.
This visibly shook us up, especially Hamissi. Around 44,000 people
of all ages had been killed in this one spot.
The bodies were exhumed, treated for preservation and laid out
on trestle tables in this old school. A visit to the National
Museum in Butare was an interesting last stop on the way back
to Kigali.
At least now we know well go back. The government has done
wonders the Rwandan people believe in them and they are
happy.
I left in 1995 and the impression of Rwanda formed during my deployment,
had stayed with me until now. Now I have a clearer, more focused
picture of Rwanda. Im happy I went back.
If
youd like to know more, email Peter at:prmatthe@dodo.com.au
Who
is Jacko?
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Peter
Matthey was less than a metre from this silverback gorilla
during a Sabinyo Mountain trek.
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Thirteen-year-old
Jacko lived in a village not far from the Rwanda/Burundi border
at a place called Bugarama.
One day in 1995 all the men in the village were forced at gunpoint
down to the river, where they all were shot.
Jacko was wounded and lay underneath bodies for a few hours until
he saw the blue berets of the UN Military Observors who were able
to transport him by helicopter to the Australians at the UN Military
Hospital in Kigali.
Jacko survived and healed well. He remained at the hospital for
about four months, until ASCII left in August 1995, even though
he was under threat many times and despite the fact he was originally
handed over to UN Military Police for safekeeping.
After the Australians left, Jacko tried his hand at chicken farming
working for a local priest in Kigali, before going back to Bugarama.
Ten years on and Jacko still fears for his life, because he can
identify the perpetrators of the shooting.