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International News

Postcard from the Big Apple

At precisely 8.46am the crowd of on-duty fire fighters, transit police and dozens of others joined the entire city of New York in observing a somber minute of silence.

From Leut Greg Keeley
in New York

THE city had an unusual feel. It was difficult to quantify and indeed identify the air around NYC on the first anniversary of the attacks on the World Trade Centre – but there was an edge to the general hustle and bustle.

As one of the thousands in the crowd which was made up of the grieving, the respectful and the curious, I made my way toward ground zero for the ceremony to commemorate those who perished. It was quiet for rush hour. The cars and taxis were still jostling for position on the gridlocked streets, yet the horns and sirens which are ever present in New York were strangely silent.

I was unable to make it through to the World Trade Center site.

About 10 blocks away an anxious and nervous young female NYPD officer informed me that I needed a special blue pass to get any closer. That, I was told, was reserved for the “911 family”, as they have become known in the US.

So I turned off Broadway into an unusually quiet Cross St, where I joined the on-duty fire fighters, transit police and dozens of others for a moving, intimate service.

At precisely 8.46am this disparate group joined the entire city of New York in observing a somber minute of silence.

A number of shops and even the “we never close” New York delis were shuttered up for the morning. Just before 10.30 church bells began to toll – to commemorate the collapse of second and final tower.

The wind was really whipping down the avenues and bringing with it mini dust storms – I saw a number of a uniformed firefighters returning from the ground zero memorial covered in dust. It was a surreal and unnerving image.

The security around the UN building was extraordinary – a police checkpoint on every corner. Up to 10 officers, comprising NYPD and Secret Service, two or three police cruisers and, curiously, two dump trucks filled with sand, engines running – at every intersection. A policeman explained the trucks could block the streets at a moment’s notice.

That afternoon the consulates of Australia and New Zealand held a joint memorial service for the 10 Australians and two New Zealanders who perished.

The large crowd was made up of the victim’s families (35 family members traveled from Australia), expats, local New Yorkers and, to everyone’s surprise, political maverick Pauline Hanson.

Australian Consul General to NY, Ken Allen read a message of hope from Prime Minister John Howard, followed by stirring renditions of the national anthems to open the service.

Perhaps the most moving moment came when Cameron McCarthy performed the traditional Aboriginal song Ginang.

Listening to the didgereedoo and the tapping sticks echoing through the cavernous church, one could almost smell the gum trees. It was a little piece of mythical Australia smack bang in the middle of the mighty city.

The service was followed by a wake of sorts, at a local bar. It was as if walking into Fremantle’s Sail and Anchor – the atmosphere was so much like home. The New Zealand-owned watering hole was packed to the rafters with Australians and Kiwis.

There was talk of the dramatic changes experienced in the past year and conjecture over President George Bush’s speech at the UN scheduled for the following day.

The security upon arriving back at the Crowne Plaza was tight as a marine corps snare drum. While explaining to a rather bored yet particularly menacing Secret Service Agent my need to breach security in order to sleep, a motorcade of 14 vehicles roared down 42nd Street. Six huge, black four-wheel drives; an equal number of NYPD cruisers and two limousines flew past. Secret Service agents were literally suspended from the window frames scanning onlookers with M16 assault rifles at the ready. It was very Terminator 2.

It was certainly a Big Apple moment that ended a moving and extraordinary day – 9/11 in New York.

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