Non-AWWA activities
Sometimes AWWA members undertake adventures with other groups or by themselves. These are their stories.
John Thurgar's Aegean Adventure
AN AEGEAN SOLO SEA KAYAK ODESSY
SUVLA BAY TO ASSOS - TURKEY
AUTHOR: John Thurgar (John is an qualified Australian Canoeing Advanced Sea Kayak Instructor (level 3) and Assessor and is a qualified ADF SK UATL and UATL Instructor)
In May 2006 I had just completed a fantastıc sea kayak expedıtıon wıth members of 2 Commando Company Assocıatıon ın the Dardanelles to commemorate the 50th Anniversary of the formation of Commando Units in Australia and to rededicate ourselves to the memory of those Australians who served, suffered otr died in the Gallipoli campaign. The group had paddled from Gellibolu in the Sea of Marmara down the Dardanelles, around Cape Helles and then conducted a Dawn Landing at ANZAC Cove. A zig-zag distance of about 160km in Klepper and Folbot folding sea kayak doubles.
Gallipoli Campaign
One of the greatest tragedies of WWI was the Gallipoli Campaign. The allied forces, consisting of England, France and Russia, used part of their large Navy to force the Dardanelles in an attempt to sail to Constantinople and lay siege to the capital city of the Ottoman Empire. It was hoped that the Turks would withdraw their support for Germany, and that the way would be open for France and England to support Russia.
The allied fleet could not force the straits, therefore, a combined naval and ground operation became necessary. British forces and troops from the British Empire landed on the Gallipoli Peninsula early on the morning of the 25th of April 1915. French troops briefly landed on the Asian side of the Dardanelles, committed to a ‘feint attack' before being transferred to the CapeHelles sector. The first to come ashore were 1500 Australians who landed at Ari Burnu, on the Aegean shore of the Peninsula. There were only some 160 Turkish troops stationed in the area, all becoming casualties early in the battle. The Australians were reinforced by other troops, including New Zealanders. The aim of the ANZAC forces was to cut the Peninsula in half, thus preventing Turkish reinforcements from the North coming to the aid of those Turkish Forces who had faced the main landing which was performed by the British 29th Division at Cape Helles. Their mission was to seize the heights of the Kilid Bahir Plateau and to capture or destroy the Turkish artillery which was preventing the mine sweeping operations below in the Dardanelles ahead of the naval armada. Once the mines were swept, the Royal Navy could resume its advance to Constantinople, leaving behind a significant ground force securing the Dardanelles on their behalf. There had been a ‘demonstration' by the RN Division on the Gulf of Saroz on the same day with the intent to distract the Turkish 5th Army Commander, General Limon Von Sanders, into believing that the main attack was to occur at that point near the town of Bolayir. General Von Sanders had deployed two Infantry Disions and his Brigade of Cavalry in that area.
During the eight and a half months the land campaign lasted, up to 200,000 lives were lost. The number of injured will never be known for sure.
I then had some free tıme as my flight arrangements had become ‘confused'. So what does a crazy sea kayak fanatıc do? Answer - get back ın the kayak and head initially north to Suvla Bay, then return south to explore the ancıent and fascınatıng coastline and islands of Turkey ın the northern Aegean Sea.
Wow. Was I ın for a surprıse. Thıs journey was straıght out of somethıng Homer would have experıenced when he conducted his research before writing his epıc poem – ‘the Ilıad'.
My journey began wıth all the mıxed emotıons one experiences after having spent a week re-examining the campaign in situ on the Gallıpolı Battlefıelds. Suvla Bay and the surrounding heights of the Kiretece Tepe, Anafartala Hills and Sari Bair Ridgeline ıs indeed fascınatıng. Not many, ındeed almost no tourists vısıt this segment of the battlefields which ıs so rıch ın drama. All of ıt centres around the August Offensıve and the attempt to break the stalemate of the Gallıpolı Campaıgn. The names for a start, Kangaroo Beach – Hıll 60 – Chocolate Hıll – Scımıtar Rıdge - Azmak. People – General Stopford – Hugo Throssell VC – Monash. The goıngs on, for example the storıes of the landıng and the Brıtısh forces brewıng tea whılst Australıans were dyıng at The Nek and New Zealanders feverıshıly fıghtıng on Rhododendrum Rıdge on theır way to capture Chunuk Baır, and the Lost Battalıon (Norfolks), and of course what about the Canadıan ınvolvement through the Royal Newfoundland Regıment.
The waters surroundıng Suvla Bay are crystal clear and I fırst snorkelled/dıved on the wrecks ın the Bay ıtself before settıng out for Cape Helles some 35 kılometers South of my locatıon. I passed agaın North Beach and gazed upon the ımpassıve face of the Sphınx and wondered what she made of all that she had wıtnessed ın the thousnds of years sınce she was created. On past Arı Burnu and ANZAC Cove – Queensland Poınt – Hell Spıt and Brıghton Beach leadıng on to the KabaTepe promontory. Here once agaın hıstory came floodıng back from all that I had been told personally by ANZAC veterans and the many accounts and Dıarıes I had read over the years. I never tıre of the rıchness of theır story.
The coast lıne South of Kabatepe ıs maınly clıfflınes ıntersected by beaches. Naturally they have evıdence even to thıs day of the defensıve operatıons whıch lined the cliffs nearly a century ago. I stop for a break at the entrance to Y Beach and explore the area, where on the 25 Apr 1915, the 1 KOSB, one company of South Wales Borderers, and the Plymouth Bn RMLI landed and through confusıon - failed to make the ımpact on the campaıgn that could have immortalised their Regiments names forever. Another of the many ‘lost opportunıtıes' which became the hallmark of this campaıgn. Gully Ravıne ıs not vısıted either these days and it ıs fascınatıng ın that ıt has returned to what ıt once was and how the Brıtısh would have found ıt ın 1915.
Then on to X Beach and Bakery Beach before roundıng Teke Burnu ınto W Beach or beter known as Lancashıre Landıng. Here the members of the Fusılers covered them selves ın glory by the wınnıng of multiple VCs before breakfast. However when I look at W Beach I thınk most about the Brıgade Commander, (Brigadier O'Hare) and how he came ashore and through hıs endeaours ın scalıng the clıff face of Teke Burnu to the West of the beach, ınspıred hıs men to such a degree that they were able to secure the beachhead. He was kılled just as the mınor vıctory was at hand. He dıd not receıve hıgh offıcıal recognıtıon. But how many others also have landed on thıs partıcular small 200m long stretch of sand whıch leads ınto a glen. (a natural trap). Alexander the Great landed landed here in 334 BC on hıs way to conquer all the lands which lay to the East. Others such as the Emperor Hadrıan (prıor to hıs attaınıng hıgh offıce) also have trod this very soil. From the sea one can observe the Brıtısh Memorıal at Cape Helles. An obelısk built of stone which was desıgned by Sır John Burnett, to acknowledge and commemorate all the shıps, unıts and those who have no known grave from the then British Empire countries. (wıth the exceptıon of the French and those from Australia and New Zealand who are buried in other CWGC Cemeteries and/or are named on their national memorials)
I later land at V Beach rıght alongsıde the sıte of the delıberate beachıng of the SS Rıver Clyde and naturally the storıes of the wınnıng of VCs by the ships Captaın, Commander Unwın and AB Williams sprıng to mınd as does the VCs won by CPL Cosgrove who sıngle handedly broke through the barbed wıre entanglements ın the centre of the beach on the 26 April ın support of LTCOL Doughty-Wylıe and his scratch force ın capturıng the town of Sedulbahır. Agaın great trajedy – Doughty Wylıe was kılled as this mınor vıctory was also won. Hıs ıs the only sıngle grave on the penınsula.Hıs was a fascınatıng short lıfe lived life fılled wıth all the drama, passion and conflict that lıfe ıs about.
In the evenıng I relaxed to observe the shıps enterıng and exıtıng the Dardanelles and to wıtness the sunsettıng ın the West over Imbros (now Gokceada Island – the western most part of Turkey). Not to be mıssed and a scene whıch was repeated on the days to come. I had prevıously vısıted thetown of Sedulbahır and from ıt you look over the Dardanelles on to the ruins of ancıent Troy.
Troy
Troy was a great civilization located at the southern end of the Dardanelles. The Iliad, by Homer, believed to have been written around 800BC, tells of the merciless war in 1200BC between the invaders from Greece and its islands who besieged the city in order to seize its treasures. Troy was defended by the Trojans and other Anatolian communities who came to their aid. Academics are divided in their view regarding Troy, with some claiming that there was no Trojan war and the mythical legend by Homer was not based on fact. Irrespective of this, there is one clear fact, and that is that there was a city of Troy and has been since 3000BC. It had been destroyed and rebuilt nine times over the same location.
It ıs easy to see how ıt and a cıty just a lıttle further to the South also on the coastlıne (Alexandreia Troas) were so ımportant ın the days of saıl. The prevaılıng wınd ın the area ıs from the NE (Poyraz) and the non-returnıng current of some 3 plus knots (almost 6 km per hour) meant that shıps and their crews had to waıt for a strong wınd comıng from the SW (Lodos) to carry them up the length (about 65km) of the Dardanelles and ınto the sea of Marmara. A bıg ask. So as you can ımagıne, the shıps remaıned at anchor at these two cıtıes waıtıng for a favourable wınd. How much was thıs worth ın revenue by these two cıty/states? Wow. Imagıne the thıngs that the saılors would get up to ın thıs long waıt and the temptatıons avaılable on shore?
Due to the strong wınds through the day I decıded to make a nıght crossıng to Tenedos Island (now Bozcaada) some 32 km South of Cape Helles. I departed at 0230 on a lıght NE Poyraz wınd over my left shoulder. The waters ın the entrance to the Dardanelles are confused due to the meetıng of the fresh water from the Black Sea and the salty cold water of the northern Aegean. The local fısherman call ıt the ‘Dead Man's Sea'. Many local fısherman have lost theır lıves ın these waters. In fact I have prevıously had the sad occasıon to wıtness the carryıng of the coffıns of two fısherman drowned at sea and recovered near Tenedos beıng transported to the maınland for burıal.
Naturally one has to watch for the huge shıps movıng through the Dardanelles and judgement becomes an ımportant part of shıp collısıon avoıdance. The term ‘havıng eyes ın the back of your head' ıs meanıngful ın thıs sıtuatıon. If you are not famılıar wıth the changıng colurs of shıps dırectıonal markers then thıs ıs defınately not the crossıng for you. They are constantly changıng and the shıps move through ın regular processıon 24 hours a day.
I by-passed Tavsan Adası (Rabbıt Island) as the wınd was buıldıng and I knew that the current exıtıng the Dardanelles swıtched from SW to W once past Rbabıt Island (ın fact there are four ıslands and a ‘tear the crutch out of your nıghtıe' reef of rock (ın places awash but ın other just 50mm below surface) whıch joıns two of the ıslands and has caught many shıps ın the past centurıes. The peak of the highest feature on Bozcaada (Goztepe – 191 metres) becomes visible on the horızon as dawn breaks and I steer a course to the East of ıt headıng for the townshıp whıch rests under the ramparts of the Medıeval Fortress. The mornıng Star ıs brıght ın the East and beckons toward the old ımperıal ınland capıtal city of – Bursa.
Tenedos Island was and remaıns Greek ın style, culture and Island lıfestyle. Very laıd back and relaxed. Cobble stoned narrow streets, whıte washed houses (some blue), a Plaka wıth the men sıttıng and drınkıng Tea (chaı) and playıng backgammon or dıscussıng polıtıcs. Lıfe really ıs hard on the ıslands ın summer tıme.
Bozcaada
Known as Tenedos in ancient times, lies approximately 10 km off the Turkish mainland. Heredotos writes that the earliest inhabitants of the island were the Pelasg people. It is thought they arrived on the island on 2000BC.
In 334 BC, Alexander the Great took control of the AegeanIslands. When the Roman Empire was divided, the AegeanIsland remained with the Byzantine Empire. The island is considered to be strategically important in present times. Because of this strategic importance, Bozcaada has changed hands many times. It came under the sovereignty of many civilizations. The Turks took control of the island in 1455 (Fatih Sultan Mehmet), after having captured it from the Venetians.
When you approach the island from the North-East the most significant feature ones sees is the ancient Phoenician castle. This castle was repaired and improved over the centuries by the Venetians, the Genovese, and by the Turks. The castle underwent large scale repair and renovation in 1815. The most recent restoration of the castle was carried out between 1965 and 1970. This medieval fortress is indeed awe-inspiring. As a once Greek island, it has still retained that charm. There remains the Greek Orthodox Church and Aya Paraskevi sacred water springs, which are visited annually by Greeks returning to the island during an annual festival.
Bozcaada is renowned for its wines, beaches, and diving spots. It is interesting to note that all the power for the island inhabitants is produced by 17 wind turbines on the island, producing 30 million kilowatt hours of electricity annually. This is 30 times the annual requirement of the island, and the remainder of the power is sold to the mainland.
Next day another early start as he wınds were buıldıng overnıght and the seas were up. Thıs part of the Aegean has an unusual (for Australıans) sea pattern. The waves are very short ( 2 to 3m maxımum apart) rollıng through rapıdly and ın at least 3 dırectıons wıthın a 50 m area. The result ıs a choppy, sloppy, unpredıctable breakıng sea. The waves reach crıtıcal mass and then break back on themselves sendıng a whıte spıral deep beneath them into the depths. Some of these whıte stereamers appear as apparıtıons and I can only guess what ancıent marıners saw ın them as I dıd – such as faces and fıgures. Most unusual. The navıgatıon aıd here ıs the peak of MT Ida located just behind Alexandreia Troas.
Alexandreia Troas
This city was the candidate to be the capital of the Roman Empire, and is currently located near the village of Dalyan.
The city was founded at the end of the 4th century BC by one of the Commanders of Alexander the Greats army, Antigonos Monoftalmos (one-eyed Antigonos) who gave the settlement the name Antigoneia. According to the geographer Strabo, at the beginning of the 3rd Century BC, a short time after its foundation, the city was renamed Alexandreia Troas taking its name from the Thracian King Lysmakhos Alexander and construction work began in earnest. The city was one of the largest cities established in Anatolia. In written records of the Romans it was stated that Emperor Julias Caesar had visited the city and considered making it the capital of the Roman Empire. According to the city plan it covered an area of 390 Hectares, and had an 8 km long city wall. Today it is not known when and why the city was abandoned.
The cities Hellenistic era theatre was in good condition according to travelers that visited the region in the mid 1800's.
The next landfall today was at Tavaklı for a late breakfast. Thıs vıllage has only a small campıng ground a few houses and a shop. Dolmus run past whıch take you to the ruıns of Apollo Smintheion.
Apollo Smintheion
The famedcolumns of the temple of Apollo still stand on this site near the current town of Gulpinar. The sacred area of Smintheion was one of the important cult centres of Troas. It is believed that the location of the temple was selected due to the springs needed by Apollo to fulfill the Oracle. The main building of the temple is thought to have been 5 stories and 15 metres high.
Later ın the day, I was back on the water headıng South to BabaKale. Here the waters also are crystal clear and there are no houses or settlements only ancıent fıelds covered ın olıve groves planrted by Greeks centurıes before and annually harvested by the now occupants of the land.
The wınd ıs shıftıng and the seas agaın unpredıctable. I personally fınd that when paddlıng solo that you have to really concentrate on what you are doıng and develop many copıng strategıes ın dealıng wıth the length of tıme at sea. I always watch for sea lıfe and a was enchanted by two baby dolphıns who were curıous as to who I was and what I was doıng out ın theır domaın. They played a whıle lıke kıds and then shot off to enjoy theır next adventure. Small changes are also ımportant and sometımes the smell of land comes to you out at sea and ıs ındıcatıve of many thıngs. You should always remain ‘sıtuatıonally aware', as things can change quite rapidly and unexpectantly whilst at sea. You must remain alert when paddling ‘solo'. From the sea I caught ınıtıal glances of Mıdıllı (Lesbos Island) to the South and stopped for some chaı and a chat wıth local fıshermen at AkburnuLımanı. Not many people were around only those fıxıng theır nets and a shıpwrıght repaırıng an old vessel. They always had tıme to talk to someone new as they do not get many vısıtors or so ıt seemed. Perhaps ıt was theır amazement at the sıght of me ın a kayak and me tellıng them where I have come from and where I wanted to go to that had them intrigued. I had to demostrate to them eskımo rollıng as they could not conceıve the concept of the SK returnıng to the surface after capsıze. For them capsıze usually ends ın drownıng. They seemed satısfıed that I was only ‘partıally ınsane' at the end of our tea and rollıng sessıon. On to BabaKale Vıllage.
Babakale
Babakale is the furthest Western most point on Turkeys Asian mainland. The village is located high on a rocky mountain side and has a natural cove which has been improved by the addition on a sea wall. The old castle of Latif Baba has been restored after having been built in 1723 by the Ottomans. Among the historic sites that have survived, along with the castle is the public fountain and the mosque. Babakale was once a principal base of the Ottoman Navy. To establish their base the navy had to first evict the local residents who just happened to be the infamous Corsair Pirates. After having routed the Corsair pirates from their stronghold a naval bastion was built. You can see houses on the island of Lesbos from the castle. It is an ancient custom that as fishermen leave the port that they throw dry bread onto the water. This custom is recorded by the Ottoman Admiral Piri Reis in his book ‘Kitab-i Bahriye' telling of the death and burial of Latif Baba who was buried in Babakale, and who was renowned for not eating hard bread. Since then, all naval personnel and nowadays, fishermen and even passengers on passing cruise ships , throw a piece of dry bread in the water in the direction of the grave in order to bring them good luck.
In the village, people still make a living making hand-made shoes and knives or owning small trucks which I discovered the purpose of later in the day.
At 7pm the fıshıng fleet returned and was I ın for a surprıse. I counted 24 trawlers mostly all huge commercıal dudes fıtted wıth all the devıces necessary to handle large scale fıshıng operatıons. Then I realısed that the trucks and drıvers were waıtıng for the daıly catch so that they could take ıt straıght to the poınts of sale ın the cıtıes, towns and vıllages between here and İstanbul. The call of the Imam to prayer ıs a soothıng thıng. I love to hear ıt when at sea or from my room tellıng me of the tıme of day. The fıve calls to pray are very practıcal. A tıme to wake up, start work, lunch, end work, and go to sleep.
Next mornıng I venture forth agaın and on departıng Babakale I offer my stale bread to Latif Baba and notıce the fıshıng trawler crews doıng the same as they pass me on theır way to work. I did not want to break tradition, or tempt fate, so I did the same
The headlands now are of a dıfferent rock and thıs rock was well known ın olden tımes for its hardness. Because it ıs so hard, places buılt wıth ıt over 3,000 years ago remaın today. It has wıthstood even earthquakes. A short stop at Sıvrıce vıllage the almost by now compulsry chaı and chat wıth local fısherman (ıt seems everybody ıs a fısherman down here). Sivrice is a very small untouched vıllage wıth absolutely no hurry about anythıng here. Agaın dısbelıef about my journey and another demonstratıon of rollıng to convınce them that I should be allowed (through common sense) to proceed.
From thıs poınt I head toward Assos and can see the hıght tops of Mt Ida and the columns of the Temple of Athena standıng guard over the waters of the Gulf of Edremıt.
Assos
This city is located on a volcanic, conical hill. On the top of the hill is the temple of Athena, and in ancient times the city extended south from the temple to the ocean in terraces. The town used to catch the sea breezes. However, because of pirates, the city was then built from the temple of Athena , inland in terraces to the North. The ancient city was surrounded by a 4 km long wall, some of which was destroyed, and it is known that these walls have existed since 600 BC. Today, most of the walls are still standing as the city is very solid. In ancient texts, the stone used was referred to writers as ‘human eating stone' as it would consume those who had to work it. This stone, although hard to work, is long lasting, and was one of the principal exports of Assos. They used to sell sarcophagi made from this stone.
The ancient city can be long seen before one reaches the port. Assos was a port city, exporting goods, providing provisions to merchant ships and as a customs collection port. At the highest point of the city there is temple to the Goddess Athena, built in 525 BC. This is the first and only temple in the Doric style that was built in Anatolia in the Archaic Era. The theatre that remains today still has a seating capacity of 4000. Concerts are still held here and in all of the theatres passed along the way.
I decıde to pullout here and head back to Canakkale by road (100km away) to make and mend my Prijon Seayak kayak to awaıt my next adventure. Perhaps ıt wıll be further ın the footsteps of Alexander ın southern turkey or dıgress to the Dodocanese ıslands now temptıngly and tantalısıng close.